Last full day in Portugal, and the universe decided to give us a story.
We woke up with no plans, which for once felt like exactly the right way to spend the last full day in a country that you can’t get enough of. We were open-minded and ready for whatever would happen next.
First idea: check out Inquieta, a vegan cafe/bookstore in Lisbon known for its plant-based eats and community events. Perfect place to meet people and see something local. We were out the door, positive we were about to collect new friends and lattes, when I did the single dumbest thing: shut the apartment door without grabbing the keys. Both keys. Locked inside. That’s your daily plot twist.
So there we were, stunned, slightly dehydrated from zero breakfast, and realizing we might spend the whole day standing in front of a door. We grabbed an Uber, stuck in creatively brainstorming with the landlord over the phone while staring out at Lisbon waking up. No plan works forever, but you find a workaround.
Breakfast got downgraded to cappuccinos to go. Then I ran down to Gal Cafe, one of those tiny Lisbon spots that somehow makes vegan quiche and a tofu croissant sandwich taste like cultural diplomacy. The sandwich was warm, curious, and delightful — exactly what a person needs before sorting out their own carelessness.
Just as the last bite disappeared, our white knight arrived. He and his son showed up with a bag of tools and no hesitation. Five minutes later the door was open, the crisis was resolved, and we were free. That’s how heroes should always appear: politely, efficiently, and with no questions asked.
With keys back in hand, it was finally time to actually do stuff. We headed straight to Inquieta, now on a real stomach. The cafe/bookstore vibe is chill-culture meets plant-forward eats wrapped in community energy. They were hosting a meetup that day, exactly the kind of casual social moment that feels rare and perfect.
We grabbed a pao de chorizo to go — a Portuguese classic, but vegan here, which is exactly the kind of delicious contradiction Lisbon seems built on. Energized, we wandered to Livraria Almedina Rato, the original location of one of Lisbon’s most beloved bookstore chains. High ceilings, wood shelves, Portuguese editions you’ve never heard of… bookstores in Lisbon have this old-world weight but a friendly, laid-back presence.
Lunch came later, at Duro de Matar, a vegan taqueria that looks unassuming from the street and knocks you sideways once you taste their menu. Tall mezcal margaritas first, because hydration is important. Then a parade of dishes: chips and guacamole, the famous lentil tostada, a fennel and pistachio tostada that somehow felt like poetry, mushroom birra tacos, celery root mole poblano tacos, and my favorite, the vegan al pastor. Each bite was a little story of texture, spice, and chef confidence. Nothing was just “fine.” Everything was thoughtfully done.
We headed home to change before the evening, because Lisbon evenings deserve a little effort.
First stop: O Primo de Queijo, a local wine bar with atmosphere and surprisingly sharp pours even if the name literally means “The Cheese Cousin.” A couple glasses later we were warm, social, relaxed.
Dinner was at Avo 26: Vegan Food Project, a spot we hit on a previous trip and remembered like an old friend. Our last experience involved a crabby and lazy waitress so while we were upset to see her right when we walked it, we were happy to find a new waiter that served us all night. We started with a vegan cheese board that felt decadently unhinged and their fried “cuttlefish” — a texture trick that actually works. For mains we shared Tofu a Lagareiro, a Portuguese classic, tofu wrapped in seaweed with potatoes, and a francesinha crowned with a vegan fried “egg” that was surprisingly real-feeling. We were too full for dessert, which is the sign of a day well eaten.
At home, we had time for a farewell espresso martini and off to bed for my early flight back to NYC.